How to Fix a Leaking Faucet in 15 Minutes (No Plumber Needed)
In this article
A faucet that drips once per second wastes around 3,000 gallons of water per year and costs you real money on the water bill. Worse, that constant moisture corrodes the seat, rusts the screws, and turns a 5 dollar repair into a 200 dollar faucet replacement six months later. Fix it now and the whole job takes 15 minutes.
The single most important step is identifying which type of faucet you have. There are four. Each one fails in a slightly different way and uses a different replacement part, but the procedure to open it up and swap the worn piece is almost identical.
Step 1: Identify Your Faucet Type
- ›Compression faucet: two separate handles for hot and cold, you have to twist hard to fully shut it off. Common in older homes.
- ›Cartridge faucet: single or double handle, smooth lift-and-rotate motion. Modern, common in kitchens.
- ›Ball faucet: single handle that moves in any direction, often on a rounded base. Very common in older single-handle kitchen faucets.
- ›Ceramic disc faucet: single handle, very short lever throw. Premium fixtures.
Not sure which one you have?
Take a photo of the handle and base. The shape of the handle and number of handles narrows it down to one or two options. If still unsure, the brand and model number on the underside (look with a flashlight) tells you everything.
Step 2: Shut Off the Water
Look under the sink for two small valves on the supply lines. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet to release pressure - it should produce a few seconds of water then stop. If your house has no shutoff valves under the sink (rare in homes built before 1990), shut off the main water supply for the house.
Plug the drain
Always plug the sink drain with a rag before you start. The screws and small parts you are about to remove will roll directly into the drain otherwise. Ask anyone who has done this once.
Step 3: Remove the Handle
Most handles have a decorative cap (often labeled H or C) that pops off with a flathead screwdriver. Underneath is a Phillips or Allen screw holding the handle on. Remove it and pull the handle straight up. If it is stuck (mineral buildup glues them on over years), wrap it in a rag and gently rock side to side. Never pry against the porcelain or the chrome - you will chip both.
Step 4: Replace the Worn Part
For compression faucets
Below the handle you will find a packing nut. Loosen it with an adjustable wrench and pull out the stem. The rubber washer at the bottom of the stem is what is leaking. Unscrew the brass screw holding it on, slide on a new washer of the same size, and reassemble. While you are in there, check the seat (the brass piece the washer presses against) for pitting. If it feels rough, replace it too with a seat grinder or just swap it.
For cartridge faucets
Below the handle is a retaining clip - pull it out with needle-nose pliers. Then pull the cartridge straight up and out. Take it to a hardware store and buy an exact match (this is critical - cartridges are not standardized). Drop the new one in, replace the clip, reassemble.
For ball faucets
Buy a complete ball faucet repair kit (usually 8 to 15 dollars). It includes the cam, seats, springs, and O-rings. Remove everything in order, replace each piece with its counterpart from the kit, and reassemble in reverse order. Take photos at each step so you remember.
For ceramic disc faucets
These rarely fail, but when they do, the entire ceramic disc cylinder needs replacing. There is no field-rebuildable part. Match the cylinder model exactly to the faucet brand.
Lost on which part to buy?
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Step 5: Reassemble and Test
- 1Reattach the handle in reverse order. Hand-tight first, then a quarter turn with the wrench.
- 2Open the shutoff valves slowly. Sudden pressure can blow out a fresh O-ring.
- 3Open the faucet for 30 seconds to flush out any debris that got dislodged.
- 4Watch the spout for one full minute. No drip? Done.
- 5Check under the sink for leaks at the supply connections - if you accidentally loosened anything, you will see it now.
Tools and Parts
🛠️ Tools You Will Need
- •Adjustable wrench - Loosening the packing nut and supply line nuts
- •Phillips and flathead screwdrivers - Handle screws and decorative caps
- •Allen key set - Many modern handles use hex screws
- •Replacement cartridge or rebuild kit - Matched to your faucet brand and model
- •Plumber's grease (optional) - Lubricating new O-rings extends their life
- •Old rag - Plug the drain so screws do not disappear
When to Replace the Whole Faucet Instead
If the faucet is over 20 years old, the chrome is pitting, you have rebuilt it twice in five years, or the spout itself is cracked, just replace the unit. A decent faucet costs 50 to 120 dollars and the install is the same shutoff-and-swap process - except instead of replacing a cartridge, you replace the whole faucet. Total time: about 45 minutes.
Quick Summary
- ›Identify your faucet type first - the part you need depends on it.
- ›Shut off the water and plug the drain before touching anything.
- ›Compression faucets: replace the rubber washer (cheapest fix, usually $1).
- ›Cartridge faucets: replace the cartridge as a unit ($8 to $25).
- ›Reassemble in reverse, open valves slowly, test for one minute.
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